Happy New Year!

I started off by taking the metro to the Arc de Triomphe, but realized that I was there two hours early with nothing to do but shiver, so I walked down the Champs and took a metro to Trocadero. Very pretty but cold way to ring in the New Year. 

The ride home was quite an adventure. I walked down to the Bir Hakeim stop, thinking it might be easier to get on, but instead stood on a crush in a platform watching one or two people get shoved into the cars each time one arrived. I couldn't even back up for about 45 minutes. It was madness, and I kept waiting for either someone to fall onto the tracks or the platform to collapse. On young man passed out briefly, and it was quite a problem just getting him off to the side. I eventually made my way out of the station and walked home. Other than the ride home, though, a good day. I think I'll take tomorrow off and concentrate on writing up my notes.

Happy New Year's Eve

Just to prove I'm in Paris:

Last night I felt the need to deviate from my self imposed routine, which is to follow one Metro line, stop-by-stop, until finished--even if it took several days. After dinner last night (Cassoulet from a can, actually very good), I went for a non-scheduled ramble, and ended up walking from Pont St. Michel to the Eiffel Tower. After a week in the city, I still hadn't seen it at night, having begun the project in lines that run primarily through the right bank. If felt good just to explore. Even though it was around ten at night, I never felt worried in even the darkest, smallest streets. I think that one of the reasons I prefer Paris is that it, in general, feels so much safer than most major cities. So far I've been extensively researching through areas with reputations for trouble, like Barbes-Roucheouart, Belleville, St. Denis, etc., and the only time I've felt a twinge of worry was when I found myself on a metro with about ten English skinheads. They seemed to be trying awfully hard to appear threatening, which only served to make them look like boisterous frat boys--with bad haircuts. I know that the banlieus are another matter, and violence can break out anywhere, but so far, pas de probleme.

PS--for Karin and Larry: I've searched everywhere for the gnome store. Here is the closest I could find:

If you notice on this last video, the store wishes all a "scary christmas"--thought you'd enjoy:

OK--I just watched the videos. The gnomes really are there, in the background (unless they're hiding from you, which gnomes tend to do).

Tuesday

Just finished shopping at the Monoprix for the next four days (four days because I bought four bananas and four yogurts). Having the Monoprix just up by the Cluny is so much easier that two years ago, when we had to go by Metro. Here's a Video of what I bought:

On the way to Monoprix I passed a band playing in front of Davioud's statue in Place St. Michel. Loved the little girl dancing:

That's all for tonight. Adieu.

Day ?--it's Monday

Just continuing to work my way through the Metro. I'm just about finished line 3 after today. It's going well, although I think I'm getting sick. The temperature "feels like" 17 degrees, according to weatherchannel.com, and I've had to wear my fur trader hat out lately. I think my inner clock has finally adjusted--no more need for naps during the day. Just a couple of quick photos of two oddly disturbing ads from Orangina machines.

Day 3

I know it will sound funny to those back home, but this is hard work. I've been through two lines completely now and am refining my method. There are a number of stops that I don't need to see, as I've explored them thoroughly in the past. I've also found that it sometimes is quicker to take a bus from location to location. The bus lines often parallel the  metro lines, so they can be quicker to a site I want to see--and also give a break from climbing up and down the stairs of the Metro.

I've found some pretty interesting places, but one of my favorites was at the end of line 1. Chateau Vincennes--and the town of Vincennes--were unexpectedly fun and quaint. The town is just outside of Paris, on the edge of the Bois Vincenees, a huge wooded park. At the top of the blog is the Chateau, and here's the chapel: 

Real Day 2, concluded

Day 2 was Christmas Day. Got up early (5:00) am, and video chatted with the family--they were having Christmas eve. After breakfast (why is yogurt so much better here?), I went out and hit a half dozen metro stations. Easy stuff--still feeling a bit of jet lag. Went to the musee Jacquemart- Andre, a beautifully conserved 19th century mansion, featuring Italian and Dutch art. There was a Van Dyke exhibit going on at the time; I'd never appreciate what a talent he had for capturing faces. Then went to Parc Monceau--more about that and pictures next time. For now, I'll leave you with holiday skating at Hotel de Ville 

Day 1 (and 2) continued at Notre Dame

After a bit, I walked over to Notre Dame. I figured I wouldn't make the midnight mass (and it's too crowded, anyway), so I went to an early evening one. This video shows the priest swinging the incense:

I'm not Catholic, but there's something powerful about seeing Christmas mass in the second most famous cathedral. Lots of rude picture takers with flashes, although that's explicitly forbidden. A little further down from the altar, I found this year's creche. The church lit up scenes from the wood carvings as the priest told the story. Here's a short video: 

Many churches this year seemed to be using technology, often to poor effect. See, for example, this version of Mary with the disco ball at St. Severin:

The simple candles were much more effective and left me wondering how they got them up there.

Ended the night with a cheap but decent meal at a nearby cafe. Had escargot, supposedly duck breast in green pepper sauce (was actually a steak, but who's to quibble as it was good) and creme brulee. Tomorrow will have fewer videos and more pictures

Day 1 (and 2) continued

Just back from the Monoprix. There's a new one just about three minutes from here, across from the Cluny. Below is a quick video of the apartment. I've cleaned up and think I'll go wander over to Notre Dame and then the skating rink at Hotel de Ville to take some shots. The 10 euro prix fixe 3 course menus here look pretty good--might just have a meal tonight.

Day 1 (and 2)

I'm here, in Paris. In my apartment in the 5th arrondisment. Pictures and maps and spelling will come later; right now I'm tired. Left LAX on the 22 and was supposed to connect in Houston, but the LAX flight was three hours late, so I spent the night in a crack hotel in Houston (thanks, Hotwire--never go below four stars when using them). Houston flight was delayed for an hour because of mechanical problems, but I'm here. And the wireless works. I've been in the same clothes for two days, without any toiletries, so my plan is to quickly shower, shave, change, and then head out to the Monoprix on Blvd. St. Michel to stock up on some basics. It's Christmas eve, so I don't want to miss if they close early. Might pick up some quick street food to bring up here. My plan, then, is to take a two hour nap, then get up and go explore and get my bearings. Cheers!